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White BMW M3 GTR now available

Jueves, 17 de Junio de 2010
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This is the R246 version of the Mini-Z  body that replicates the BMW M3 E46. This version of the replica is that of the white GTR model that includes quite a large competition type wing. 

As far as the mold is concerned it is the same one that Kyosho used some years ago and the R246 is a real bombshell for carrying out new decorations.
Just as is indicated on the product package, this car body is valid for the Mini-Z MR02 MM and the Mini-Z MR03 Wide MM

This car body forms part of a total collection of 7 BMW M3 car bodies that will be described below:

* BMW M3 GTR ALMS 2001 No. 6
* BMW M3 GTR ALMS 2001 No.10
* BMW M3 GTR ALMS 2001 No.42
* BMW M3 GTR 24h Daytona 2004 No.21
* BMW M3 GTR Nurburgring 2003 No. 43
* BMW M3 GTR Nurburgring 2005 No. 1
* BMW M3 GTR White Body

Version that we have at hand don´t include the rims needed for our chassis; which means that we will have to buy a set of rims that come with the model. 

We recommend the use of wide 11mm rims with a +0mm offset and a narrow 8,5mm front assembly with an offset  of +0mm. 

The body is well made even though the decoration isn´t as impeccable as what we are used to seeing with Kyosho´s decorations. 
The detail of the side exhaust pipes using stickers and the non elimination of the rear exhaust pipes gives a certain lack of realism.

On a more subjective note the wing seems a bit over sized and over done. However, what does seem like a good idea is that of recovering the former Kyosho body that in its day worked out very well but didn´t have any competition decorations available for it.

Tarik Smith General, TRP News , , , , ,

Gyroscope for the Mini-Z MR03 and TRPScale dNaNo

Jueves, 17 de Junio de 2010
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This version created by TRP scale is totally compatible with the version that Kyosho has on the market, along with the large difference of its final price that makes it difficult for this chassis accessory to get popular.
The function of the gyroscope in the dnano and MR03 is to offer maximum stability to the car by equiping it with automatic steering and throttle correction in case of skidding of the rear assembly. 
We find this very useful when the surface that we race on doesn´t have much grip (e.g. parquet, stone, or polished cement)

Nevertheless, it´s an option that is widely used in competitions given that it provides greater stability for the vehicle. We consider that with the dNaNo and MR03 it is ideal for use  at home.

Its operation and components are 100% equal to those of Kyosho. 

You can check out the new gyroscopo for Mini-z in our on-line store.

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , , , , ,

MR03 Chassis Preparation for Competitions – Level 3

Martes, 25 de Mayo de 2010
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LEVEL 3

 
The options that we will describe in detail in Level 3 are only worth considering once you have prepared your racing machine as described in the two previous levels. 
There´s no point in applying Level 3 options if you haven´t first upgraded our car with basic but indispensable parts, nor if you haven´t simultaneously improved your of race track driving skills. 
For those drivers who have already had a taste of the world of  Mini-Z  competitions you would have experienced an important qualitative change in the conception of what the Mini-Z really is.
Competing demands good preparation, both of our machines as well as all of those aspects which concern our skills (i.e. those abilities that, after one has already begun competing, can be aquired without even realising it). 
In Level 1 we addressed the issue of the essential parts for every Mini-Z whether for competing or not. In Level 2 we described options that improved considerably the performance of our car in addition to the robustness upon collisions, impact, take off. Now in the third Level, we suggest those parts that will help you put the finishing touch on your tune-ups while giving you the possibility of having cars that are more competitive. 
 
1 – Central Shocks (Ref. MR2161)
 
 
The friction disk suspension, as with those that we recommended in Level 2, allow us to regulate both the side tipping force of the rear assembly as well as the flexion of the carbon (i.e. the actual suspension). On the one hand we are able to control the lateral movements of the rear assembly when taking curves and on the other, such characteristics help to smoothen out the bumps caused either by irregularities on the track or action of acceleration or braking.
Depending on the type of surface we have applied to the disc suspension, we may find that it returns very slowly to its original position, thus leaving our car with the rear assembly rather forced in place and indented. To avoid this effect and also adjust the longitudinal movement force of the rear assembly to our liking, we can assemble central shocks just like those described; which in addition,  will function in conjuction with the friction dics. 
You can find  various models of central shocks on the market; even oil-filled shocks. We have chosen this type because it allows us to adjust the feel of both the compression and the extension separately. 
The greater the preload that the shock damper is adjusted to, the greater the grip thatwill be attained in the front assembly, whilst losing stability in the rear assembly. 
Furthermore, for maximum precision in the adjustment of these shocks, we have a kit of optional springs with various hardnesses. (Ref. MR2162).
 
 
Generally speaking, the parts that we have been assembling on our chassis help us to increase the control that we have over it. Therefore, together with substituting the motor that we had changed previously (Level 2) for a much more powerful one, we can now also modify the electronics of our car by , incorporating more powerful FET´s. 
We could in fact assemble very powerful motors without substituting the original FETs (which are desinged to “withstand” a certain amount of force inferior to that of which is required for large motors) before hand.
By simply changing the FET and assemblying at least a 2+2 , we will immediately be able to notice an important increase in the power of our motor. Following this, after getting used to this new output of power, we can assemble a motor of maximum performance.
To proceed to the changing of the FET one needs skill, instruments (solding iron with very fine point, tin (solder), tweezers, magnifying glass etc. ) and lots of patience.
The 2+2 structure refers to the mounting of two columns of two FET in each. In the case of the new Kyosho electronics, la 2,4Ghz, the FET come readily assembled with 2 in 2 on both faces of the electronics board, thus meaning that its not necessary to set them up vertically.
There are motors such as the Atomic Chili that have such a high intake that they requiere a greater number of FETs. In such a case we would have to set up a 3+3 FET at the least. 
 
 
In the last Level of preparation of our race car; after having modified our electronics with the optional FETs, we can now consider equipping our MR03 chassis with a high performance motor.
By this we mean a motor that can turn at around 40,000rpm plus  has an acceleration and motor brake far more superior than conventional motors.
 
These are basically used for competing and one must also bear in mind the fact that  these types of motors can´t be used on any type of race circuit. Very often, carrying an over the edge motor can make things more awkward for us; causing us to taking curves too late, use up more battery power, wearing down rubbers more quickly etc.
 At this stage of our recommendations, it is indispensable that the driver try out different things and carry out various adjustments on their car in order to achieve the desired setting. One of the tests  that should be carried out prior to any competition is the selection of the motor. Power, energy intake,  top speed, motor brake etc. all of these things must be on par with our tune-up as with the conditions of the track (length, grip, etc.).
One last recommendation when it comes to mouting an optional high performance motor, is to trim back the motor cable endings that are screwed onto the electronics board. In this manner we will prevent the endings from coming into contact with and getting crossed with the components of the board itself. 
 
 
To achieve a greater rigidity and also avoid undesired movements of the rear  fiber suspension plates, we assemble this support in aluminium. The  support comes already fastened onto the chassis with two screws, on which (and not onto the chassis) the fiber plates are also screwed via two additional  orofices. 
 The length of this part together with its fastenings cause the T plate to be more firmly secured. Furthermore, the fact that metric threads  are used, the T screws can be fastened even tighter without worrying about going passing through the plastic. 
 
5 – Gyroscope (4548565144426).
 
 
At the moment, only the MR03 chassis (and the small Dnano) comes with the option of assembling this device. It is connected directly to the electronics board and acts as a type of grip control device; controling the power output and steering of our vehicle.
When the gyroscope detects that the position of the car (e.g. when exiting a curve) isn´t correct, it automatically corrects the position of the front wheels while reducing the velocity, regardless of how much we the car full throttle.
As you are well aware, the  ASF type electronics that operate at 2.4Ghz, have a software designed for setting some of its parameters. Once the Gyroscope has been connected, we can regulate the sensitivity of the device via two parameters:
ST Gain – Amount of spin intercepted by the giroscope.
TH Gain – Amount of speed that the gyroscope will control once in action.
It is evident that on circuits with lots of grip this component is negligible, however,on circuits with limited grip it will help us to be much more consistent from lap to lap. 
 

Tarik Smith Competitions, General, MiniZ, TRP News , , , , , , ,

Preparation of the MR03 Chassis for competitions LEVEL 2

Domingo, 28 de Febrero de 2010
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LEVEL 2
 
Once our Kyosho Mini-Z MR03 has the option parts that allow us to take it to the level of perfection that we wish  (parts recomended in Level 1), it´s time to consider starting to compete with our little racing car. By competing we mean, either against other drivers or against the chronometer. 
It´s evident that, as easy as all of this Mini-z stuff might seem, without some good training sessions to let us get used to our machine plus a minimum of option parts that help us to improve the on track performance of the car, the possibilities of competing with our Mini Z won´t be feasible.
To continue with the option part process of our Mini-Z, with a focus on competing, would should bank on the following: 
1-      The durability of key parts of the car. We must be sure that nothing´s going to break during the race. 
2-      The possibility of making constant improvements to the set up of the car and the use of option parts  that enable us to increase the number of adjustments and settings. 
So therefore, in this second level of preparation of the Mini-Z MR03, we will mount parts that have a dual purpose; on the one hand they make certain sections of the car more robust, and on the other hand they help to improve the performance of the race car on track. 
Just as we did in Level 1 we´ll go section by section. In this case, the first two parts that we suggest make up part of a group of option parts whose function is to reinforce the MR03 chassis. 
 
1 – Mini-Z MR03 steering arm (Ref. MR3032S)
 
Installing this option part on our car will give us many possibilities. To start with, the steering will be made more robust and will avoid breakages following knocks and collisions. These steering arms that we propose also give us the possibility of lowering the chassis height on the front assembly and thus the lowering of the car´s center of gravity (greater velocity when taking curves and lower risk of flipping over). Moreover we´ll be able to access the  King Pin (the axle that the arm passes through) and lubricate it from the inside of the arm (you can see the cross section of the center of the steering arm).
Furthermore, the nylon housing that incorporates the steering arm that the sterring arms slide through, reduces the friction between the arm and the axle and smoothens the movement of the front assembly suspension.
As you can observe, on the MR03 chassis, when we press down on the front suspension, we alter the angle of incidence on the wheels against the floor (we call this effect a camber or fall).
 
2 -  Steering rod for the Mini-Z MR03 (Ref. MR3019S)
 
Once we have replaced the steering arms on our chassis, we must also change the steering rod. Apart from the advantages that the aluminium rod offers us, substituting the original plastic rod for an aluminium one is a good option because it´s not adviseable for the small pins of the arms to exert force against the plastic orofices of the rod (on impact, the plastic orofices of the steering rod are always what take the brunt of it).  
In addition to its sturdiness, with an optional steering rod we can also modify the car´s geometry. If you take a good look, the steering rods of the MR03 are divided into to narrow and wide ones and have different degrees of convergence (toe in) and divergence (toe out) with respect to the direction of movement. 
The car body used will “oblige” us to assemble a long or narrow type rod. In any regard, selecting a divergent or convergent rod will modify the performance and stability of our Mini-Z. 
If what we want is stable and accurate steering, especially on straight lines, we use divergent steering rods; the greater the divergence, the greater the stability. However, at the same time, we´ll lose speed on curve entry. If on the contrary, our car is already stable enough on straights, we can mount steering bars with different degrees of convergence. Converging bars will make our cars become more agitated, unstable on straights (the car trajectory will have to be continuously corrected), but much faster on curve entry.
 
 
 
Once we´ve decided to start competing and make full use of our chassis, we´ll have to have some option parts at our disposal that give us more control over certain sections of the car. At Level 1 we exchanged the original plastic suspension plates for fiber ones.  You´ll notice that when these swing laterally, they quickly and freely return to their original position and with greater or lesser force, depending on the hardness of the plate. Such a quick return can cause the bouncing of the rear assembly and as a result, a loss of grip. 
The friction of the suspension discs helps us to dampen the momentum in the torsion of these fiber T plates, thus diminishing the swing motion of the rear axle.  
By using this suspension kit we´re able to adjust the friction force of the discs (assembling springs of varying hardness) and subsequently the speed of the lateral torsion of the rear assembly. 
To achieve optimum tact on the rear assembly we can play a little with the hardness of the suspension (T) plates as well as the hardness of the suspension springs for whatever surface we may be competing on. 
 
4 – Motor mount  94 and 98 (Ref. MR2295S)
 
The motor mount is one of the vital elements of our list of option parts for our Kyosho Mini-Z. One of the advantages of the MR03, from our point of view, if the rear section of our chassis is identical to its predecessor, the MR02. Therefore all the parts that we used on our MR02 can also be used on the  MR03, including the disc suspension. 
The motor mount basically has two functions;  make the rear assembly more robust, and facilitate the fixture of the motor to the chassis. Using these  motor mounts, the micro adjustment between the motor pinion and the crown  of the differential is totally accurate and easily carried out. Other characteristics that these motor mounts (available in aluminium) offer us are:
  • The option of adjusting the height of the arm that supports the friction discs. 
  • The option of raising or lowering the rear axle through the accesories that come with the motor mount, with which we can further adjust the height of the car. 
  • The motor acts directly on the mount, meaning that, in addition to reducing the weight of the entire assembly, the metal on metal contact helps to dissipate the temperature of the motor. Furthermore, the fact that the motor runs “free” only on one side and without any type of encasement, it´ll be a good idea to refrigerate it. 
  • Strictly speaking, the motor mount, allows us to use both 94mm car bodies as well as those with a 98mm wheelbase, provided that they are in MM (Medium Motor) position.    
 
5 – Pn Racing Speedy Motor 07 (Ref.111550)
 
In order to start competing with our Mini-Z we clearly need to mount a motor with greater performance. The stock motor that comes with the original Mini-Zs are ok to start off with, but they lack some vital characteristics for competitions.
A motor like the one that we propose in this section can be set up on optional motor mounts (it includes holes in the front especially for this purpose), we can also replace the carbon brushes when they become worn without having to change the entire motor. 
The fact that it carries bearings also helps to reduce the energy consumption of the battery and extend the life of the motor. A motor with these characteristics, for use on the original stock electronics, provide us with a performace efficiency that is much greater than the original motor. We have great top speed and take off speed. 
Another advantage is that with the use of this type of motor , once we decide to modify the electronics (assembling multi FET systems) we can still use the same motor with the resulting increase in performance. 
We recommend the use of this type of motor, multifaceted, that can be used with original as well as modified electronics. 

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , , , , , , , ,

Video – Preparation of the Mini-Z MR03: Level 1

Sábado, 6 de Febrero de 2010
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This is the support video for the article published last week on the preparation of a  Mini-Z MR03 -  Level 1

 

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , , ,

MR03 chassis – competition preparation – Level 1

Jueves, 28 de Enero de 2010
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There are a great number of spare parts and kits available on the market for the new mini-Z MR03 by Kyosho. For this reason, we have divided this article into three parts (or stages) of preparation based on the tune-up level that we want to reach.

In this case, the order of the preparation levels is important as it will help us to improve our driving skills at the same time as the performance of our race car. There is no point in driving a super modified Mini-Z if we aren´t even able to handle it with stock parts.

LEVEL 1

 This is the basic level of optional parts that all Mini-Z MR03 chasses should house. These parts will allow for improved overall efficiency plus will provide us with better handling and total control of the car. For this first stage of preparation the recommended options are:

 1- Bearings: (Ref: TRP013)

 

 

With this ítem we enable the entire set of transmission fixtures to run more smoothly. As a result, the car gains acceleration, as well as  velocity and star performance in general. We must also mention that if you want your bearings to rotate with greater ease and speed they should be cleaned with special with special degreasing liquid before they are assembled. This is because, once manufactured, they are coated with a layer of factory protective grease. If not cleaned, the end result will be that the rotating speed of the bearing  won´t be very fluid. The use of bearings that are in good condition reduces battery power consumption. Therefore that act of mounting the bearings is just as important as keeping them clean and in good running condition.  

 In total, the bearings kit consists of 7 units. The four similar bearings are to be mounted on the front rims, 2 per rim. The remaining three bearings go on the rear wheel assembly; two of which go on the motor mount and the other on the outer part of the rear rim located on the crown of the differential.

2- Suspension “T” Plates: (Ref: 10019)

By incorporating this ítem onto your Mini-Z, you will improve the lateral torsion of the rear wheel assembly of the car; thus avoiding unnecessary bouncing caused by the plastic plate. In this manner the traction, stability and grip of the MR03 chassis will be notably improved.  This kit of “Ts” (so-called given their shape) are in fact comprised of three plates of different hardnesses. To begin with, its advisable to assemble an intermediate plate first and then try the other two in order to fine tune your preferred tune-up. Generally speaking, you would want to know that on smooth, foam-type  surfaces, soft plates are used to allow for much smoother lateral torsion. On the other hand, on hard surfaces such as carpet, wider plates, which have a much harder torsion, are used.  

With this ítem we enable the entire set of transmission fixtures to run more smoothly. As a result, the car gains acceleration, as well as in velocity and star performance in general. We must also mention that if you want your bearings to roll with greater ease and speed you they should be cleaned with special degreasing liquid before they are assembled. This is because once manufactured they are coated with a layer of factory protective grease. If not cleaned, the end result will be that rotating speed of the bearing is concerned won´t be very fluid. The use of bearings that are in good condition reduces battery power consumption. Therefore that act of mounting the bearings is just as important as keeping them clean and in good running condition.  

 

 3- Front shocks: (Ref: TRP016)

 

 To adjust the performance of the front part of the car to your liking, you´ll have to try different types of front shock with their different hardnesses. For the front of the car you should use the hardest type so that the front of the car will tend to slide out on wide , open corner. We will also mount softer shocks as we want the front of the car to close in tighter when it swerves. As with the suspension plates, it is worthwhile beginning with the shocks of medium hardness and later on try other hardnesses in order to put the finishing touches on the car tuneup. The function of the suspension is closely related to the type of tire that you use. A bad fitting in the combination of shocks and front tires will make your car undriveable, way out of control and very difficult to manuever.  

 The combination of very soft tires with shocks that are somewhat hard or vice versa; (harder tires with softer shocks),  in many cases is the key to a good tune up.

 

4- Ball differential: (Ref: TRP011)

The stock differential used by the Mini-Z MR03 is the planet-satellite type which is the reason for which it doesn´t come with a regulating component. As a result of this, depending on the surface on which it runs, the use of stock differentials can cause continuous over swerving or even spinning if the surface is somewhat slippery. In order to avoid this effect, the assembly of a ball differential is vital, given that it enables us to change the power supply of the motor to the wheels. On slippery surfaces we can leave the differential a little loose to prevent the wheels from skidding when gas is given to the motor and we can then gain  greater control of the vehicle.

 This differential, made of steel (axle and discs), aluminium (volts and disc supports), delrin (crown) and ceramic (ball differential), comes already assembled and greased, ready for use on your Mini-Z MR03, together with conventional 6T, 7T, 8T, 9T, 10T sprockets.

 5- Wheel nuts (Ref: TRP010)

 

   

 

Every time you assemble and disassemble the rims of your car, the nuts that come with the original kit must first be loosened and then tightened. These original nuts are made of plastic and tend to quickly lose the braking effect, making them difficult to tighten them to your liking.  For this reason we recommend aluminum brake nuts. You can fasten and loosen them over and over again and will also give your Mini-Z a more stylish look.  

 

 

6- Tires:

 
 This first level of preparation is recommended for when, once you have carried out the modifications of your chassis, described previously, you begin to to look for tires that improve its traction. If the car is used for racing around the house you ought to know that the grip will be seriously compromised. This is why there are no specially made tires for surfaces like wood or ceramic tiles. In such cases one would have to opt for mouting soft tires (generally speaking) onto the rear assembly (between 10 and 20 degrees by any manufacturer) and harder ones on the front assembly (around 40 degrees), so that the performance of the car  could be smoother and easier to handle.

 Other common surfaces, for use in competitions such as carpets or tracks made of foam come with rubber tires made specially for this purpose.

Coming soon we will be continuing with the development of our chassis with additional possible options. This will be Stage 2.

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , , , , , ,

Kyosho Mini-Z Drift

Jueves, 14 de Enero de 2010
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The drift is currently one of the most popular disciplines of auto modelling and in this article we´ll give you a bit of insight into how to set up your drift 4×4 mini-z awd. The parts that we will explain have been tested out by our official drivers such as David Moret,  Uri Vadé and others; which is what gives us an added guarantee of performance and reliability. If this is the sort of style  that you´re into and if you really like controlled skidding then this set-ups article is for you.

Car choice is important given that of all the mini-z cars the Mini-Z MA is the only one that comes equipt with integrated traction on all four wheels. There are several possibilities but the most recommended is by the chassis and car body set. Even though the car bodies supplied may not be what you´re looking for you can always select the chassis and car bodies separately.

It´s important to know that the only car bodies that are valid for this mini-z model are the 90mm and 94mm ones as indicated by the symbols and icons on our web page.

The next step is to incorporate a motor that can be mounted without manipulating  the electronics and overheating the motor, given that with this model the motor is housed within the chassis and is poorly cooled. Therefore a good choice would be a stock AWD motor or even a stock ATOMIC motor.

  

By clicking on these links you can access the technical specifications of these motors.

You can then make these compatible with the rear wheel assembly incorporating a 2 degree aluminium rod so as to converge the rear wheels.

Another vital part are the drift tires. These are tires that are made of a very hard, non-flexible material. They are made of PVC which means that the car won´t have any grip on the ground surface and will allow the car to skid more easily. There are two references with regard to the type of rim to use; either wide or narrow. The wide rim tends to have a base width of 11mm whilst the narrow is 8,5mm. Drift cars normally use the narrow rim, but without a doubt, the wide rim gives a greater showiness to the car.

                              

                               

You always have the option of using nice-looking wheels, but if you change them, be sure that they have a 20mm exterior diameter because if this isn´t the case, the drift tires would´t fit onto the rim.

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , , , , , , ,

PN Racing launches a new bracket for the suspension “T”

Miércoles, 30 de Diciembre de 2009
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This new retaining flange is made of worked aluminium and incorporates two countersinks and grooves for holding the chassis in place. The set also incorporates the necessary screws with plastic configuration. All of these features reduce the movement in the rear track of  this new and exciting Mini-Z MR03 by Kyosho.  The assembly instructions are very simple; the flap has two positions, but it also can be mounted using two additional positions which is what makes it compatible for use on Mini-Z 94mm, 98mm and 102mm cars.  As you can observe in the graph, with this part you can set up 3 different configurations. It´s also worthwhile to note that the aluminium plate is designed so that the screw can enter perfectly into the aluminium without pertruding and therefore does not interfere with the carbon or fiber “T”.

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , ,

Secrets of the Kyosho Mini-Z MR03

Miércoles, 7 de Octubre de 2009
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Thanks to the collaboration of Pemar Model, importer of Kyosho products for Spain and for Kyosho Japan we have found out that product samples have been sent for testing. We´ll be able to see first hand some of those features that amaze us so much about this new Mini-Z chassis.

In the meantime you can take a look at some of  these photos of the chassis and you may also like to know that at this very moment, an explanatory film about the car is being shot so that you can uncover its best kept secrets.

In this next video that will be published on our  Mini-Z Channel, David Moret shows us the similarities and differences with its predecessor, mini-Z MR02.  As far as the optional components, its compatibility with optional parts of different manufacturers, as with its technical characteristics and electronic devices,  are compatible with these new electronics. We can also tell you in advance that for those who have the giroscope by dNaNo, you can install it on your Mini-z just like the plug and play model.

Our hope is that you may watch this next video with the same excitement as we did and we invite you to make use of our forum to ask any questions that you may have about the chassis.  Mini-Z MR03 Forum

 

 

 

 

 

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , ,

Kyosho announces new car bodies with the Mini-Z MR03

Lunes, 14 de Septiembre de 2009
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 As far as we are aware, the new MR03 cars will be supplied in the same wat as the  2,4 Ghz ASF. In other words, with chassis,+electronics+car body and the transmitter will have to be bought separately.  

Naturally, for those already using the Mini-Z MR02 this is much more practical. 

Tarik Smith General, MiniZ, TRP News , , , , ,