The options that we will describe in detail in Level 3 are only worth considering once you have prepared your racing machine as described in the two previous levels.
There´s no point in applying Level 3 options if you haven´t first upgraded our car with basic but indispensable parts, nor if you haven´t simultaneously improved your of race track driving skills.
For those drivers who have already had a taste of the world of Mini-Z
competitions you would have experienced an important qualitative change in the conception of what the Mini-Z really is.
Competing demands good preparation, both of our machines as well as all of those aspects which concern our skills (i.e. those abilities that, after one has already begun competing, can be aquired without even realising it).
In Level 1 we addressed the issue of the essential parts for every Mini-Z whether for competing or not. In Level 2 we described options that improved considerably the performance of our car in addition to the robustness upon collisions, impact, take off. Now in the third Level, we suggest those parts that will help you put the finishing touch on your tune-ups while giving you the possibility of having cars that are more competitive.
The friction disk suspension, as with those that we recommended in Level 2, allow us to regulate both the side tipping force of the rear assembly as well as the flexion of the carbon (i.e. the actual suspension). On the one hand we are able to control the lateral movements of the rear assembly when taking curves and on the other, such characteristics help to smoothen out the bumps caused either by irregularities on the track or action of acceleration or braking.
Depending on the type of surface we have applied to the disc suspension, we may find that it returns very slowly to its original position, thus leaving our car with the rear assembly rather forced in place and indented. To avoid this effect and also adjust the longitudinal movement force of the rear assembly to our liking, we can assemble central shocks just like those described; which in addition, will function in conjuction with the friction dics.
You can find various
models of central shocks on the market; even oil-filled shocks. We have chosen this type because it allows us to adjust the feel of both the compression and the extension separately.
The greater the preload that the shock damper is adjusted to, the greater the grip thatwill be attained in the front assembly, whilst losing stability in the rear assembly.
Furthermore, for maximum precision in the adjustment of these shocks, we have a kit of optional springs with various hardnesses. (Ref. MR2162).
Generally speaking, the parts that we have been assembling on our chassis help us to increase the control that we have over it. Therefore, together with substituting the motor that we had changed previously (Level 2) for a much more powerful one, we can now also modify the electronics of our car by , incorporating more powerful FET´s.
We could in fact assemble very powerful motors without substituting the original FETs (which are desinged to “withstand” a certain amount of force inferior to that of which is required for large motors) before hand.
By simply changing the FET and assemblying at least a 2+2 , we will immediately be able to notice an important increase in the power of our motor. Following this, after getting used to this new output of power, we can assemble a motor of maximum performance.
To proceed to the changing of the FET one needs skill, instruments (solding iron with very fine point, tin (solder), tweezers, magnifying glass etc. ) and lots of patience.
The 2+2 structure refers to the mounting of two columns of two FET in each. In the case of the new Kyosho electronics, la 2,4Ghz, the FET come readily assembled with 2 in 2 on both faces of the electronics board, thus meaning that its not necessary to set them up vertically.
There are motors such as the Atomic Chili that have such a high intake that they requiere a greater number of FETs. In such a case we would have to set up a 3+3 FET at the least.
In the last Level of preparation of our race car; after having modified our electronics with the optional FETs, we can now consider equipping our MR03 chassis with a high performance motor.
By this we mean a motor that can turn at around 40,000rpm plus has an acceleration and motor brake far more superior than conventional motors.
These are basically used for competing and one must also bear in mind the fact that these types of motors can´t be used on any type of race circuit. Very often, carrying an over the edge motor can make things more awkward for us; causing us to taking curves too late, use up more battery power, wearing down rubbers more quickly etc.
At this stage of our recommendations, it is indispensable that the driver try out different things and carry out various adjustments on their car in order to achieve the desired setting. One of the tests that should be carried out prior to any competition is the selection of the motor. Power, energy intake, top speed, motor brake etc. all of these things must be on par with our tune-up as with the conditions of the track (length, grip, etc.).
One last recommendation when it comes to mouting an optional high performance motor, is to trim back the motor cable endings that are screwed onto the electronics board. In this manner we will prevent the endings from coming into contact with and getting crossed with the components of the board itself.
To achieve a greater rigidity and also avoid undesired movements of the rear fiber suspension plates, we assemble this support in aluminium. The support comes already fastened onto the chassis with two screws, on which (and not onto the chassis) the fiber plates are also screwed via two additional orofices.
The length of this part together with its fastenings cause the T plate to be more firmly secured. Furthermore, the fact that metric threads are used, the T screws can be fastened even tighter without worrying about going passing through the plastic.
At the moment, only the MR03 chassis (and the small Dnano) comes with the option of assembling this device. It is connected directly to the electronics board and acts as a type of grip control device; controling the power output and steering of our vehicle.
When the gyroscope detects that the position of the car (e.g. when exiting a curve) isn´t correct, it automatically corrects the position of the front wheels while reducing the velocity, regardless of how much we the car full throttle.
As you are well aware, the ASF type electronics that operate at 2.4Ghz, have a software designed for setting some of its parameters. Once the Gyroscope has been connected, we can regulate the sensitivity of the device via two parameters:
ST Gain – Amount of spin intercepted by the giroscope.
TH Gain – Amount of speed that the gyroscope will control once in action.
It is evident that on circuits with lots of grip this component is negligible, however,on circuits with limited grip it will help us to be much more consistent from lap to lap.